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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.